Table of Contents
- 1 Does wave speed affect wave height?
- 2 What happens to the wave height and velocity as a wave approaches the shore and transitions from a deep water wave to a shallow water wave?
- 3 What happens to the wave height as the wind velocity increases?
- 4 Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
- 5 When waves approach the shore Why does the wave height increase?
- 6 What are three wind factors that determine the height length and period of waves?
- 7 How is the velocity of a wave related to its length?
- 8 How does the slope of a wave affect its height?
- 9 How does the size of a wave change with depth?
Does wave speed affect wave height?
Wave height is affected by wind speed, wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction. If wind speed is slow, only small waves result, regardless of wind duration or fetch.
What happens to the wave height and velocity as a wave approaches the shore and transitions from a deep water wave to a shallow water wave?
What happens to the wave speed, wavelength, height, and steepness as the wave approaches the shore? – The height increases b/c the amount of energy within the wave does not change when the wave speeds up or slows down, since it went from deep water to shallow water, the energy moves up making the wave height taller.
What happens to the wave height as the wind velocity increases?
As wind velocity increases, wavelength, period and height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient. water. motion as the wave passes.
How does fetch affect wave height?
Fetch is an important factor in the development of wind waves, which increase in height with increasing fetch up to a maximum of 1,600 km (1,000 miles). Wave heights do not increase with increasing fetch beyond this distance.
What is the relationship between wave height and wave energy?
The amount of energy in a wave depends on its height and wavelength as well as the distance over which it breaks. Given equal wavelengths, a wave with greater amplitude will release more energy when it falls back to sea level than a wave of lesser amplitude.
Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
As a wave enters shallow water, increased wave height results as the wave’s energy is packed into less surface area with the accompanying (increase) (de- crease) in wavelength and wave speed.
When waves approach the shore Why does the wave height increase?
When the wave touches the bottom, friction causes the wave to slow down. As one wave slows down, the one behind it catches up to it, thus decreasing the wavelength. However, the wave still contains the same amount of energy, so while the wavelength decreases, the wave height increases.
What are three wind factors that determine the height length and period of waves?
The size of a wave depends on three factors: the distance over which the wind blows across open water (the fetch), the strength of the wind, and the duration that the wind blows.
Why does wave height increase in shallow water?
Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend.
What happens to a wave as it slows down?
As one wave slows down, the one behind it catches up to it, thus decreasing the wavelength. However, the wave still contains the same amount of energy, so while the wavelength decreases, the increases. Eventually the wave height exceeds 1/7 of the wavelength, and the wave becomes unstable and forms a .
Wave velocity Deep water waves Velocity of wave energy through water determined by wavelength Longer waves move faster Use period as is easier to measure than length Speed (m/sec) = 1.56 x wave period Typical 8 second trade wind wave moves at 12.4 m/sec=28 mph Shallow water waves Velocity of wave is related to water depth
How does the slope of a wave affect its height?
The gentle slope of the bottom causes the wave height to slowly increase until the wave collapses on itself (left: JR, right: James St. John, [CC-BY-2.0], https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsjgeology/23769708334). Plunging breakers form on more steeply-sloped shores, where there is a sudden slowing of the wave and the wave gets higher very quickly.
How does the size of a wave change with depth?
Orbital motion The size of the orbit of the water particles increases with wavelength The orbit size decreases rapidly with depth Orbit size decreases to 1/23 of surface value at a depth equal to 1/2 of wavelength Only “feel” waves to a depth of 1/2 of their wavelength